Grand Palace Complex

Before catching an overnight bus to Laos, Joey and I toured the Grand Palace complex in Bangkok. The complex includes the palace grounds and the Wat Phra Kaew, Temple of the Emerald Buddha. When on the grounds, one must be covered from the elbows to the knees. Joey was wearing shorts so he had to borrow a fetching set of pants from the attendants. They are well prepared for inappropriate dress, lending pants, skirts, and sleeved shirts to Thais and foreigners alike.



The temple that contains the Emerald Buddha is surrounded by a group of very elaborate buildings including two golden chedis, a text depository, a library, and a model of Angkor Wat. The Thai style is, in a word, shiny. Many of the buildings are covered in colored glass tiles and gold leaf. It was an incredibly hot day and the sun seemed magnified by all of the reflective surfaces. It is a stunning look, if not one that I would want to wake up to every morning.

The Emerald Buddha has a turbulent history. Its origins are unknown. It was first found in 1434 in a stupa in Chiang Rai. It was kept by the Thai kings until taken to Laos in 1552. The Thais took the Buddha back in 1778. Since then it has remained in Thai hands. The chapel he is housed in is currently being renovated so we don't have any pictures of the interior or exterior. The picture of the Mondop below gives you the basic idea, though.

The buddha image is carved from jade, not emerald, but it still quite striking. (Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed.) He has three outfits: summer, rainy season, and winter. His summer attire is appropriatedly skimpy, basically a bunch of gold jewelry. His rainy season attire looks more like a gold suit while his winter outfit is a poncho made from a gold chain. He is one well-dressed Buddha.

The buildings on the palace grounds are not quite as ornate as those in the temple area but still interesting. The capital was moved to Bangkok, called Krungthep mahanakhon amonratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchaniwet mahasathan amonpiman avatanasathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit (or Krungthep for short) in Thai, in 1782. Rama I and his successor's filled the grounds with buildings in a large variety of architectural styles. The King no longer lives on the Palace Grounds but the buildings retain their ceremonial functions.

We couldn't take pictures inside so we can't show you the ornate thrones, particularly the one covered in mother of pearl, and other interior features. Frankly, it was so hot we didn't get many pictures of the outside either. We basically walked at a slow rush from fan to fan. Walking fast enough to get to the next fan but not too fast so that you get extra sweaty is a key skill for dealing with the heat of Southeast Asia. Unfortunately, it is one we haven't yet entirely mastered but we are working on it. Our new pace will drive our Seattle friends nuts when we get home!